The Striped and Checked Cloths of Coromandel
The Coromandel Coast produced a remarkable variety of striped and checked textiles that were integral to global trade and cultural exchange. These fabrics were not just commodities; they embodied the region’s craftsmanship and adaptability, serving diverse markets across the world:
Guinea Cloths: Striped or checked, coarse or fine, bleached or unbleached, these versatile textiles catered primarily to the West African market. Known as Guinea cloths due to their association with the Guinea Coast, they were instrumental in the Atlantic trade network, including the slave trade. Adaptability in patterns and finishes made them indispensable for this exchange.
Ginghams: These Indian-woven textiles showcased intricate patterns of stripes and checks in vibrant colors. They were crafted with mixed fibers or textured through doubled warp and weft threads, making them highly sought after in markets like Asia and the Dutch Republic.
Dongris: Known for their rugged utility, dongris were natural or bleached sturdy cottons used for packaging, sailcloth, and workwear. Their durability ensured demand across Europe, Asia, and Africa, underlining their functional significance in trade.
Madras Checks: The so-called Madras handkerchiefs are a fascinating construct of identity tied to trade history. Before 1750, these textiles were referred to as Pulicat handkerchiefs, but their association with the colonial port of Madras led to the eventual rebranding of these checked fabrics. Lightweight and vividly patterned, they gained fame in global fashion markets during the late 18th century. The term Madras checks was more a colonial marketing invention than a historic legacy, reflecting the layers of re-contextualization that textiles underwent during global trade.
These textiles, whether utilitarian or ornamental, represent the Coromandel Coast’s critical role in shaping global trade networks. They evolved not only through cultural exchange but also as products of colonial constructs, embodying a blend of indigenous craftsmanship and external narratives.
