The Nayaka Kalamkari represents a fascinating chapter in the rich tapestry of Indian textile arts. Originating from the central Coromandel region, this distinctive style emerged as part of the early group of Coromandel textiles. Unlike the temple hangings of its time, Nayaka Kalamkari is characterised by intricate figurative drawings set within elaborate architectural frameworks. This unique aesthetic bears a striking resemblance to Vijayanagara paintings, suggesting its roots lie with artists who practiced under the empire during its tenure at Chandragiri.

As the Vijayanagara Empire’s influence waned and its chieftains, the Nayakas, gained independence, this artistic tradition spread to various Nayaka courts across the southern peninsula. These newly autonomous rulers proved to be enthusiastic patrons of art and culture, true inheritors of the Vijayanagara legacy.

Under their patronage, the Vijayanagara artistic tradition reached new heights of refinement and complexity. The Nayaka Kalamkari style flourished, evolving into a sophisticated form that showcased the region’s artistic prowess.

Hand drawn & Resist dyed

While deeply rooted in the stylistic conventions of contemporary murals and figurative paintings from the region, Nayaka Kalamkari also hints at broader influences. The impact of trade connections and a growing affinity for European paintings of the time are aspects that warrant further study. Technically, these textiles were crafted using a hand-drawn resist-dyeing technique with natural dyes, a hallmark of Indian artisans of the period. This method allowed for the creation of stunningly detailed and vibrant designs, cementing Nayaka Kalamkari’s place as a pinnacle of Indian textile art.